Three Trails Worth the Drive This Week — May 20–27

Three picks this week, spread across California, Washington, and Colorado. Each one has a time-limited reason to go now rather than later — one closes to weekday hikers at the end of June, one gets metered in mid-June, and one's shoulder-season ice window disappears entirely in July. Geography is the other draw: all three are in distinct climates and ecosystems, which means whichever region you're closest to, one of these should be within range.

Two things make this week the best window for the Mist Trail. First, Vernal Fall (317 ft) and Nevada Fall (594 ft) are at or near annual peak flow. 1 Second, the John Muir Trail section known as the "Ice Cut" — between Clark Point and the Panorama Trail junction — is closed through late June for trail repairs. 2 Every hiker heading to Nevada Fall, Panorama Trail, or Little Yosemite Valley is rerouted up the Mist Trail. That means more spray, tighter steps, and a trail running at full intensity. Starting June 30, the Mist Trail above the Vernal Fall footbridge closes Monday–Thursday from 7 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. for maintenance work. 2 This week — and through the coming weekend — is the last window of full weekday daytime access before that maintenance schedule begins.

The Mist Trail to Vernal Fall's summit involves over 600 steep granite steps — and in late May those steps are soaked from spray. 2 The NPS trail guide puts it plainly: "Prepare for slippery footing and a tremendous amount of waterfall spray in spring and early summer." 2 Waterproof gear and trekking poles are worth the bulk. Start before 7 a.m. if possible — the free Valley shuttle doesn't run until 7 a.m., but the walk from Curry Village to the Happy Isles trailhead (shuttle stop #16) is under a mile. 3 Afternoon thunderstorms are possible at the summit, and the summit runs 15–20°F cooler than the valley floor.

If you want to go beyond Nevada Fall to Half Dome: cables went up May 15 and the daily permit lottery is active. 4 Apply two days prior at Recreation.gov ($10 application fee + $10 per person if awarded). Rangers check permits at the base of the subdome — the subdome itself is accessible without a permit, but the cables are not. 5

Parking and access: No parking at the trailhead itself. Park at Curry Village (under 1 mile to the trailhead) or use the free Valley shuttle from your campground or day parking area. 2 El Portal Road has pavement work May 26–29 with delays up to 15 minutes on weekdays. 6 Bears are active throughout the park — keep food within arm's reach on the trail at all times. 6

Fees: $20–35 per vehicle (7-day pass); credit/debit only, no cash. America the Beautiful pass covers entry. Non-U.S. residents pay an additional $100 per person age 16+. 7 No timed-entry permit required for the Mist Trail corridor.

The Hoh gets 100–170 inches of rain annually. 9 Late May is the narrow window when the mosses are at their deepest green — saturated from months of winter and spring rain — but the crowds haven't yet arrived in force. The National Weather Service is forecasting sunny skies and highs of 71°F on Wednesday, May 27, and 69°F on Thursday, May 28 10 — a legitimate sunny window in a place that earns its reputation. Two more things going for the timing: the Hoh Campground is still first-come, first-served until June 12 (after which reservations are required via Recreation.gov) 8, and the summer crowd-metering that typically starts mid-to-late June isn't in effect yet. 11

It's also Roosevelt elk calving season. The Hoh Valley supports 400–500 Roosevelt elk, and late May is when calves start appearing alongside their mothers in the forest and river meadows. 12

Both trails start at the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center. The Hall of Mosses passes through bigleaf maples draped in club moss — branches holding so much moss they bend back toward the ground. Tim McNulty, whose writing on the rain forest has appeared in NPS materials, describes the shift in scale: "When I stop to follow a great bole of spruce from forest floor to the upper canopy, my perception changes and routine senses of scale and proportion slip away. In the rain forest, thoughts intuitively yield to a slower and grander pace." 12 The Spruce Nature Trail extends into the floodplain and reaches the Hoh River's edge — the water runs a milky slate-blue from glacial flour off Mount Olympus. 12

Trail surfaces are packed dirt and boardwalk throughout. No pets allowed on any Hoh trails. 12

Parking and access: The Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center is open daily 9 a.m.–5:30 p.m. 8 In summer the main parking lot fills by 10 a.m.; arriving before that window is the straightforward solution in late May. There are no food services or gas at Hoh — fuel up and grab supplies in Forks, WA, the nearest town. From Seattle, the drive runs approximately 5–5.5 hours via I-5 to Olympia then US-101 around the Olympic Peninsula. 13

Fees: $30 per private vehicle (7-day pass); $15 per person on foot or bike. Olympic Annual Pass $55; America the Beautiful pass accepted. Park is cashless. 14 No permit required for day hiking. Wilderness camping overnight requires a permit ($8/person/night, age 16+, plus a $6 permit fee) via Recreation.gov. 15

Active closures to know: The Staircase area remains closed due to wildfire impacts. 8 Hurricane Ridge Road has weekday construction closures (Mon–Thu) through June 30 — if you're making a peninsula loop, plan that visit for a Friday through Sunday. 8 The Hoh itself is fully open: trails, parking, restrooms, and visitor center all operational. 8

Rocky Mountain National Park's Timed Entry+ Bear Lake Road reservation system launched on May 22. 17 That's this week — the first days of what becomes an increasingly competitive lottery through July and August. Right now, the 40% of reservations released nightly at 7 p.m. MDT the day before are still accessible to flexible hikers. And if you're willing to arrive before 5 a.m., you can skip the reservation entirely — Bear Lake Road Corridor requires no Timed Entry+ permit before 5 a.m. or after 6 p.m. 17 In late May, sunrise hits around 5:35 a.m. — a 4:45 a.m. departure from Estes Park puts you on the trail as the peaks light up.

The other draw this week: Emerald Lake is partially frozen, with snow-covered peaks reflected in ice-edged water. By July that visual is gone. The NPS volunteer trail report from May 21 describes what you're walking into: "From Dream to Emerald Lake, several sections of the trail exposed to sun have melted out. Several sections of the trail are still snow packed and very icy." 16 The NPS conditions summary is direct: "From now through early June, expect winter hiking conditions." 16

Full round trip: 3.6 miles, ~650 ft elevation gain. Starting elevation at Bear Lake Trailhead: 9,475 ft. Emerald Lake: 10,110 ft. Difficulty: moderate. Estimated time: 2–3 hours. 16

What to bring: Traction devices (microspikes) are not optional on this trail right now — the NPS specifically calls them out for the Dream-to-Emerald section. 16 Waterproof boots, trekking poles, and warm layers are equally essential. Plan to hike in the morning: the freeze–thaw cycle means trails are firmer and more predictable before noon; afternoon sun turns packed snow into postholing slush. Check the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (CAIC) forecast before heading out — avalanche hazard remains possible into late May at this elevation. 18

Permits and entry: The Bear Lake Road Corridor requires a Timed Entry+ reservation ($2, non-refundable) via Recreation.gov from 5 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, through October 18. 17 Reservations are released in monthly batches (1st of each month at 8 a.m. MDT) and a second daily batch at 7 p.m. MDT the night before. The reservation covers entry only — it does not guarantee a parking spot. If Bear Lake and Glacier Gorge lots are full, the free Bear Lake Shuttle from Park & Ride runs every 10–15 minutes, 6:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. 19 Miss the last shuttle and there is no other public transit back to Estes Park. 19

Fees: Standard park entry $15–35 per vehicle depending on pass type; RMNP Annual Pass $70; America the Beautiful pass accepted. 20 Timed Entry reservation ($2) is billed separately. All park entries are cashless — credit/debit only. 20

Getting there: Estes Park, CO, is the gateway town — approximately 70–80 miles from Denver (1.5–2 hours via US-36). Bear Lake Trailhead is roughly 20–30 minutes from downtown Estes Park. Denver weekend hikers can also take the Bustang bus to RMNP Park & Ride, running Saturdays and holidays from May 23. 19